SELECTING THE PICK PUPPY

By Sue Bishop

Most ethical dog breeders - those who are not solely interested in making money on a breed - breed dogs for one reason...in order to produce an exceptional specimen (according to their own interpretation of the Standard and the qualities of the breed that they value-be these working ability, conformation and/or intelligence) to retain for future exhibition, or as a valuable addition to their own breeding stock. It is rare for all of the puppies in a litter to be of equal quality, and it, therefore, becomes a necessity for the breeder to be able to spot that one pup which he or she wishes to keep...that one pup which has made all of their efforts worthwhile. For the novice breeder, that is not always an easy matter. This article is intended as a guide for these first-time breeders, who may have no idea at all what to look for in their pups. I hope it will render some assistance.

With the Aussie, the three things we need to take into consideration are Conformation, Temperament and Working Ability....and not necessarily in that order. The area of importance most highly stressed will, of course, vary from breeder to breeder, but I feel that it is important to mention the fact that we are all, hopefully, striving to produce a versatile dog, one that will excel in what we call "Character," which is really the essence of the breed, as well as in conformation.

Working ability, unfortunately, is not always evident at the early age at which we would like to choose our pick puppies and should have been considered prior to breeding arrangements. If you have been careful in selecting the parents with an eye to their working instincts, sooner or later these instincts should show up in your pup. Some just develop later than others. If you are fortunate enough to have a pup who displays workability at an early age, try to get him in with some gentle stock, preferably ducks, and observe his style. Sometimes it will be evident, even in a very young puppy, whether he will be a header or heeler, and, if you prefer one over the other, this may influence your decision.

In choosing a pick puppy, a dog of excellent conformation should be considered worthless if its temperament is poor. A dog that is overly vicious, or nervous and shy should not be used for breeding, as many learned people feel that these traits could be hereditary. Do not, however, make the mistake of confusing aggressiveness, or a loyal and protective nature, with a faulty disposition. These qualities can be a plus in a working Aussie.

I believe that it is possible, to some extent, to shape the dispositions of your puppies, if you are willing to take the time and put forth the effort into making your dogs superior. Begin with socializing them to human companionship at a very early age. You must spend time with them, talking to them and playing with them. A pup that is left alone in a run to fend for himself for the first several months of his life, is often left with permanent emotional scars that may never heal. You will also find, if you take the time to be with your litter, that there are some puppies that just naturally display a liking for human companionship. They will be the first to greet you at feeding time, and there may be one who will seek your affection avidly. He may have a happy, sunny personality. If this same pup displays a corresponding grade of conformation, there should be no problem in selecting the pick of the litter.

When evaluating the physical points of your puppies, keep the Breed Standard in mind. I look at the following:

The Head - The main features to be examined are the width of the skull, the length of the muzzle, and the "stop". Although there are slight variations in head type allowed, you should choose the pup with good width between the ears and at the cheekbones. Choose the puppy with the shorter muzzle and a well-defined stop. Ear placement and size generally remain the same as the pup matures, but a good 1/4 over forward ear set can change dramatically at 3 to 4 months. I look for good thick ear leather and with a forward set, but I prefer the drop ears. Experienced breeders know to watch dental development of their pups throughout their growth. A slight overbite in a young pup, MAY correct itself in the adult, but a slight underbite almost never does, and usually becomes much worse. A dog with an underbite, or missing molars (unless they are missing as a result of accident) should never be bred.

Neck and Forequarters - In most cases, look for the pup with the longer neck and scapulae which lies well back upon the dorsal bones. Consult the breed standard for specifics on angulation. A bad upright shoulder in a pup never corrects itself in the adult.

Body and Hindquarters - The Aussie should have a good amount of width to him. Check that there is distance between his front legs and between his back legs. Choose the puppy with good ribs and deep chest capacity. Check him from the rear, and make sure that he is straight, not cow-hocked. He should have a straight, level topline when viewed from the side, and the pup with the strong back will be evident in movement. His back should remain firm and level at an extended trot. He should have good reaching movement in front and an equivalent drive behind. Ask some breeders at a show to tell you which dogs have better movement, and study these carefully.

Color and Coat - There are a lot of people choosing their dogs strictly on the merits of coat color, looking for flash. Many times the solid colored pups in your litter will be superior to the merles. With an eye to bettering the breed, give them a chance. If you are a novice breeder, remember to cull all white puppies, or puppies that don't have color around BOTH eyes and ears. Check your Breed Standard. It's amazing how many novice breeders don't know about merle whites.

When in doubt, consult an experienced breeder, who can, and should be willing to help you.