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BRINGING YOUR NEW PUPPY HOME By Kristin Rush - Shadowrun Aussies If you thought choosing a healthy, happy, well-bred Aussie pup was difficult, just wait, now the hard work really begins. Raising a puppy to his full potential takes time, patience, and persistence. But, in the long run, the benefits you will reap from a loving relationship with your new companion will be worth all your efforts. BEFORE YOU BRING YOUR NEW PUPPY HOME If you are sure you will be bringing a new pup home soon, or if you have already picked one out from a breeder and are just waiting until it is old enough to leave its littermates, you might want to start gathering some things together ahead of time. This way when you bring your new pup home you will be a little more prepared and will be able to devote your time to the new member of your family rather than to shopping details. Some items that are handy to have ahead of time are as follows: Bowls - one for food and one for water. Remember that some pups like to play in their water, therefore it is a good idea to get a heavy crock type water bowl or something with a wide base that the pup will not be able to tip over if he climbs into it or steps on its sides. Also, a bucket with a handle that you can clip to the side of a wire pen or fence is a good idea, especially if it is hot outside, just in case the pup might tip over his only source of water. Food - if you haven't chosen your pup yet, you might want to wait to see what the breeder has been feeding. However, if you want to use a specific brand of food that you are comfortable with, go ahead and get it. Just remember to get enough food from the breeder when you do eventually get your pup to gradually change his diet over to your new brand. Collar - a smart choice is to get the type of collar that can be adjusted to different lengths so that your pup can wear it from the time he comes home until 6 to 8 months of age. Collars with buckle clasps are also handy because, if your pup does get his collar caught on something, you can free him rather easily even if he is fighting and pulling back from whatever he is caught on. All of your initial training can and should be done on a buckle type collar. Later you might want to get a choke type of collar, either of nylon or chain, but wait until your pup grows up to get the right size, and check with the breeder or trainer you are going to use to make sure you get the appropriate type and size. NEVER put a choke collar on a puppy, or adult dog, and leave him unattended. Dogs can and will hang themselves on choke collars; don't let your dog become a statistic! I.D. Tag - even if you don't know what you are going to name your new pup, you can have an I.D. tag made up with your last name or 'REWARD'; and phone number imprinted on it to put on your new pup right away. It's always better to be safe than sorry. You can also order nylon collars with your phone number embroidered on it or have a flat brass plate attached onto a collar, this way you won't have anything loose and dangling off the pup's collar to distract him while he first getting used to it. Leash - a 6' nylon or leather leash is really the best way to go and will last you a lifetime, unless it gets chewed up first!!! Forget the chain type of lead, they are awkward and not a good training aid for an Aussie. Crate - a #300 is good for a female while a #400 is better for a male. Either the plastic airline type or the wire style work equally well. Plastic airline crates will run from $40.00-$80.00 depending on size. You can purchase them from pet stores (usually the most expensive), from dog show vendors, mail order catalogues, or from Walmart or Fry's (usually the least expensive). Wire crates usually cost about the same as plastic. They cannot be used for airline shipping, but they do provide better ventilation in warmer climates and may have the added benefit of being able to fold down for easier storage when not in use. Toys - a variety is best initially until you find what your pup prefers. The lambswool toys are nice because you can throw them into the washer and dryer for cleaning. Knotted rope tugs are good for cleaning/flossing teeth. Nylabones are long lasting and safe to chew on. Vinyl squeakies are always a favorite, but make sure they are the hard vinyl so that the pup cannot pull it apart and swallow pieces of the plastic. Bones - Some people like to give their dogs marrow and knuckles bones from the butcher. Make sure you throw these bones away when the dog wears them down to smaller pieces. Any type of chicken, pork, or rib bones are unsafe for dogs since they splinter too easily and can get caught in the throat or cause internal damage and even kill a dog. Regular rawhide bones and cow hooves can also splinter, so they are not recommended for pups or adults. Pressed rawhides are much safer and the dogs seem to enjoy them just as well. Shampoo - you will not have to bathe your Aussie often, but for times when you do need to, it is best to have a shampoo especially formulated for dogs rather than using your own shampoo. People shampoos tend to dry out a dog's coat. Brushes - a slicker brush, a pin brush, and a metal comb are all you should ever need to keep your Aussie 'looking good!' Nail-Trimmers - the clamping type you use on your nails are perfect for puppies. Later you will need to use something a little larger which are available at pet stores. PUPPY-PROOFING YOUR HOME AND YARD Before you bring your new pup home, you should puppy proof your home and yard. Puppies are like babies; they are curious and they teethe, so look around and remove anything that may be an inticement or danger to an inquisitive puppy. Tuck all electrical and telephone cords out of reach. Make sure all loose items like shoes and other chewables are put away where a puppy cannot get to them. Be sure that all laundry detergents, disinfectants, bleach, insecticides, fertilizers, mothballs, antifreeze, human & veterinary medications, and any ant, roach, and rat/mice poisons are securely stored in closed cabinets. Also be aware that some plants can be harmful, or even deadly, to your pup. These include Philodendrons, Dieffinbachias, English Ivy, Caladium, Poinsettias, and Oleanders to name a few. Look around for sharp objects like nails, staples, pins, etc. While chocolate is yummy to us, it can be toxic and even lethal for your puppy, and remember a plastic bag can suffocate a curious puppy. You should also inspect your yard prior to turning a pup loose to play in it. Check for all of the above listed things, and also make sure your fencing is secure and that there are no small holes your pup might be able to squeeze through. Be sure your gate shuts tightly, and see if the pup might be able to fit through the sides or underneath it. If he can get his head through, then the body will typically follow. You may also want to consider putting a lock on any gates at this time so no one can accidentally leave it open, or worse yet, open it intentionally because they think your new pup is really cute too! And, of course, if you have a pool, be sure there is absolutely no way the pup can get close to it when you are not around to supervise him. NATIONAL ANIMAL POISON CENTER COMING HOME A puppy should be at least 8 weeks old before he leaves his littermates. Plan on bringing your new puppy home on a Friday, before a weekend, or when you have several days together that you can devote entirely to the puppy. Leaving his family will be a very stressful time for him, so it's important to make this transition as easy and as quiet as you can. Try to bring something home with the pup, i.e. a piece of bedding or a well-used toy, so he will have a familiar scent with him in his new surroundings. If possible, do not leave the puppy alone during the first 48 hours. Take time to ease the pup into his new routine. Don't try to do too many things with the puppy during the first couple of days. Keep things relatively quiet; allow him to investigate his new home at his own rate of speed; and keep visitors to a minimum until the puppy is comfortable with your family and his new home. For the first few months, limit trips outside your home to a minimum. Pet stores and parks are fun places to show-off your cute, new puppy, but they are also places where lots of other dogs have been, some of who may have been sick. You need to protect your pup from the many communicable diseases they could pick up in public places. It is extremely important to follow through with the complete series of shots the breeder or your vet has recommended for your pup and that your pup's outside social contact be restricted until this series of shots has been completely finished (approx. 4 months). If you need to take your pup to the vet for any reason during these first few months, make sure you keep him in your arms at all times while waiting, and place him directly on the exam table when the vet is ready to examine him. Do not put your pup on the floor at any time while at the vets! You may even want to bring an extra pair of shoes to change into before re-entering your car after your vet visit, and a mixture of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water is a good disinfectant to rinse the soles off with when you return home. FEEDING Your new puppy will be used to eating 3 to 4 times a day. Ask the breeder for the feeding schedule that the pup has been used to, how much and how often. Stay as close to this schedule as you can for the first few days. Then, if you need to, gradually change the pup over to a feeding schedule that is better suited to your own schedule. When your pup reaches 6 months of age, he will only need to be fed two times a day; and at a year you can begin feeding once a day. Try to follow a routine when feeding your new puppy. Put down the recommended amount of dry food at approximately the same time each day. Allow the puppy 15-20 minutes to eat what he wants, and then pick up the bowl. Stress of adjusting to his new home may cause your puppy to lose his appetite for the first 24-48 hours. Do not get over-alarmed if the puppy ignores or picks at his food for the first day or two, and do not try to overcompensate for this by trying to force the puppy to eat by adding canned food or other goodies to his kibble. Stress and overeating combined are sure to cause a puppy an upset stomach and diarrhea. As your puppy settles in, he will soon be cleaning his bowl. If he refuses food longer than the first day or if he refuses 2 meals in a row after eating well, then a trip to the vet is probably necessary. The first signs of Parvo are lack of appetite, lethargy and diarrhea. Rather than free-feeding (leaving food down all the time), feeding on a regular schedule will allow you to keep better tract of your pups overall health and will set up a better routine for house-training. Always take your puppy outside to potty shortly after he finishes each meal. FRESH WATER SHOULD BE AVAILABLE TO YOUR PUPPY AT ALL TIMES. SOCIALIZING Although it is suggested you limit your pups exposure to the outside world during his first few months, it is extremely important that you begin socializing him during this critical period. You can do this in your own home or in protected ways. Once your puppy is comfortable in his new environment, invite all household visitors to interact with the puppy. Expose him to all types of people, young, old, men, women. Children should sit on the floor when handling a puppy. Encourage the puppy to explore any new situation and verbally praise him when he does. If the pup seems unsure about a situation, provide confidence by talking him through it, but NEVER force the puppy into any situation he feels hesitant about. Be confident and calm should your puppy become frightened. Avoid soothing or babying the puppy as this may reinforce his fear. Offer a couple of reassuring pats and adopt a happy, confident attitude so you don't exhibit fear or anxiety yourself! Expose the puppy to as many new things as you can, but take special care that he has a good experience. Gradually introduce him to loud noises (like the vacuum), car rides, grooming, etc. If you have an opportunity to take the puppy to a 'safe' environment, a place where you know other dogs don't frequent or where the other dogs are healthy and current on vaccinations, then by all means take advantage of the situation. It is very important for the pup to interact with other people and dogs outside of his own home. After he finishes his series of vaccinations (around 4 months), start taking him to any and all new places you can think of. This is a great time to get enrolled into a Kindergarten Puppy Training Class. Check with your breeder for a class in your area. CHEWING Puppies chew out of natural curiosity and as a way to relieve some of the discomfort associated with teething. Unfortunately, puppies are not discriminating about what they chew on, so it is up to us to direct their chewing in a positive manner. Start by providing your pup with the assortment of toys you previously bought for him. Play with him with these toys and praise him for playing with and chewing on them. If you catch the pup chewing on something other than these toys, immediately tell him 'NO', take the undesirable object from him, replace it with one of his chew toys, and promptly praise him. If you find something chewed on after the fact, do not punish the pup. He will not remember what he has done, and it will only confuse him. Be diligent about keeping your things out of the pups reach and be generous with the toys and chew things you leave laying around for the pup. Puppies also tend to chew on people and your clothing. It is very important to curb this behavior immediately by gently, but firmly, placing your hand around the pup's muzzle and saying 'No Bite'. As soon as the pup releases his grip, praise him and encourage proper play by throwing a ball or giving him on of his toys to chew on. Avoid wrestling with your pup and do not in any way encourage him to play aggressively with you. CRATE TRAINING Eventually you are going to have to leave the puppy unattended during certain times of the day. In anticipation of this, crate training is a way to provide peace of mind for both you and your pup. If done properly, crate training can provide your pup with a haven-like den where he can go to get away; it will prevent destructive habits from forming when you are unable to keep a close eye on your pup; it will allow your dog to travel more safely in the car; and it can be a wonderful aid to housebreaking. Some people feel it is cruel to confine a dog to a crate. If a crate were used as a form of punishment or if a dog was immediately put into a crate for long periods of time, a dog would probably come to resent a crate. But, if introduced and used correctly, most dogs will come to view a crate as his private, special den. Also, many dogs are turned into the pound because of damage they do while unattended. So which is crueler, having a dog euthanized because of preventable destructive behavior or crate-training a pup and eliminating problem behavior before it starts? The choice is yours. If your pup needs to be left alone for more than a few hours before he is properly crate-trained, you will need to find a larger, safe, secure area for him to stay in where he has a place to potty away from his sleeping area. Later, as the dog matures and he is comfortable with his crate, you will be able to leave him unattended in his crate for up to 4-6 hours at a stretch. If you use a crate during puppyhood and the dog is taught good behavior habits from the start, you may find that later you may not even need to use the crate at all, except maybe for certain situations like traveling, etc. It is very important that your pup's first exposure to his crate be very positive. Take your time, be patient, and follow these guidelines carefully, and you will have a dog that will come to respect and actually even like his crate.
HOUSEBREAKING Aussies are generally very easy to housebreak. House training should begin as soon as you bring your puppy home. Remember that puppies have small bladders and need to relieve themselves often, and the excitement and nervousness of being in a new environment will probable make the pup have to 'go' even more. But, with patience and persistence, you will soon have a pup that will know where he can and cannot go. The key to good house-habits is consistency by the owner! Start by choosing a designated 'potty' spot outside, preferably in a fenced area so you will not always have to put on a collar and leash to go out. Take the pup to this same spot before and after play times, right away when he wakes up from a nap, within 15 minutes after finishing a meal, whenever he is let out of his crate, first thing in the morning, last thing at night, and approximately every 30-60 minutes in between. At first, it is best to pick the pup up and carry him out the same door to the same 'potty' spot every time. When you set the pup down, tell him to 'go potty', 'hurry up', or whatever you want, but always give the same command so the pup will soon learn that it means to do his business. Stay with the pup until he goes and then reward him lavishly with praise when he is finished. Pick him up and carry him back into the house or over to the 'play' area of the yard. Try to instill in him that when you go to his potty area you go to do a job and nothing else. By being very consistent with this program, the pup will quickly learn why you took him to that spot and will hopefully start going to the door you normally carry him through and whine, bark, or scratch when he needs to go to his spot. Even if you see him wander toward that door and act like he may need to 'go', or if you see the pup sniffing and circling in the house, pick him up, take him to his spot, and tell him to 'go potty'. If he does 'go', reward him with tons of praise. If it is a false alarm, pick him up and go back inside with no big fuss. Do not reward him for asking to go out if he does not 'go'. Initially, you will have some accidents. They are inevitable, so be patient. If you do catch the pup in the act, NEVER punish him by yelling, screaming, hitting him with your hand, or smacking him with a newspaper. Instead, go to him calmly, say NO in a soft but firm voice, put the pups nose in his mess, pick him up, take him out the usual door to his 'potty spot', put him down, and tell him to 'go potty'. When he finishes, really praise him and tell him what a good puppy he is. Clean up the inside accident with an odor neutralizer so as not to entice the pup to go in the same spot again. If the pup has an accident and you do not catch him in the act, DO NOT punish him. The pup will not remember what he has done, and you getting upset and reprimanding him will only confuse him. Instead, just clean up the mess and keep a little closer eye on him. As mentioned earlier, crate training and housebreaking can go hand in hand. Basically, a pup does not want to soil his sleeping area, so while he is crated he will do his best to hold it. This will help him develop better bladder control. Any time the pup is left in his crate, whether while taking a short nap or for a couple of hours, remember to carry the pup right out to his 'potty spot'. By opening the crate door and allowing the pup to walk through the house, you run the risk of him having an accident along the way if he cannot resist temptation or because he is overly excited about seeing you after your absence. TRAINING You can also begin teaching your new pup manners and basic obedience as soon as you bring him home. Be extra patient with the pup for the first few days as he is getting used to his new surroundings, but be sure to set the ground rules and let the pup know who is boss right from the start. Dogs are pack animals by nature with a well-defined social order. Far from being cruel or intended to break his spirit, training is necessary for the dog to understand his place in your 'pack', and, if done properly and fairly, he will respect the discipline he receives from you, his 'pack' leader. Some people are afraid their dog won't love them if they discipline or reprimand them for bad behavior. But, to the contrary, correct, consistent discipline instills respect and thus strengthens a dog's affection. Discipline can be, and must be, part of the love you give your dog, and it will increase the love he gives you. The first two words your new pup needs to learn are 'his name' and 'no'. His name should usually be used in a positive manner so the pup will be happy to hear it and will be eager to respond. 'No', on the other extreme, is a negative word used to get the pup to immediately stop whatever he is doing. You might also want to use a sound such as 'Ahhh' or 'Eh-Eh' to distract the pup when he is misbehaving so that you are not always saying 'No', 'No', 'No'. It is also extremely important to praise the pup as soon as he stops whatever it was he was doing in response to your distraction command. This way the pup won't dwell on being punished and will learn that responding to your command is the correct behavior. Other early training will include learning to walk calmly on a leash, to come when called, to sit, down, stay, etc. You should also make sure you stop bad habits before they start by letting the pup know that it is unacceptable to jump on people, get on the furniture, beg at the table, chew on things other than his own toys, bite at people, or tug on clothing. What you allow now, your puppy will expect to continue for a lifetime. Puppy Kindergarten Training classes are a wonderful way to learn how to teach your pup some of these basic principles as well as provides a great place for socializing with people and other dogs. Again, be sure to wait until your pup has finished his complete series of puppy vaccinations before starting any puppy training class. Whether you are working with a pup or training an older dog, the following training tips should be kept in mind and should help you and your dog have a very positive working relationship. TIPS FOR TRAINING YOUR DOG:
TIPS FOR FINDING A GOOD TRAINER
SUGGESTED READING LIST THE ART OF RAISING A PUPPY, by The Monks of New Skete HOW TO BE YOUR DOG'S BEST FRIEND, by The Monks of New Skete HOW TO RAISE A PUPPY YOU CAN LIVE WITH, by Rutherford & Neil PERFECT PUPPY, by Gwen Bailey MOTHER KNOWS BEST, by Carol Lea Benjamin DOG PROBLEMS, by Carol Lea Benjamin PEOPLE, POOCHES, PROBLEMS, by Job Michael Evans PLAY TRAINING YOUR DOG, by Patricia Burnham BEYOND BASIC DOG TRAINING, by Diane L. Bauman * (One of my personal favorites) Two good sources for ordering these books, as well as numerous other books on training, problem prevention, showing, herding, agility, tracking, search & rescue, tricks, are: APLINE PUBLISHING (800) 777-7257 or DIRECT BOOK SERVICE (800) 776-2665 OBEDIENCE & SHOW TRAINING GROUPS LOCATED IN PHOENIX
SHOW TRAINING & CONDITIONING If you have bought your pup with the intention of showing him or having him shown in the conformation ring, the previous training tips also apply to you. It is very important to have a dog that is well-mannered and well-socialized in the show ring. If the judge cannot see a dog stand still, gait smoothly on leash, and have his body touched without backing away or shying, they won't be able to use them in the award placements. Therefore, it is all that much more important for you to be aware of and to work on manners and obedience at an early age. Other than the aforementioned socialization and training suggestions, there are only a few things you need to do to train your dog for the show ring. The main thing is to not teach your pup to automatically sit when he gets a treat. A dog that automatically sits for a treat is reacting with a conditioned response rather than waiting to sit until he is told, which is a learned response. Get the pup used to standing and waiting until you give a command before he does anything. You may want him to lie down, or you may not want him to do anything other than to stand there at attention. Only give the treat after the pup/dog has done what you asked him to do, and immediately verbally praise him as well. If the dog sits or lays down without you giving a command to do so, gently reach under his belly and help him back onto his feet and tell him to 'stand'. Once the dog is standing, wait only a few seconds before giving a treat and praising him for standing. Gradually increase the length of time you make the dog stand, but don't rush it too fast so that the dog will sit or lay down out of frustration or confusion. When the dog is standing, let him know he is doing what you want by reinforcing the behavior with gentle praise and by telling him what a good boy he is or by saying 'good stand'. You can also give pieces of the treat intermittently to keep his attention on you and to assure him that he is doing the right thing. Pretty soon you will find that as soon as you open the cookie jar or reach into your pocket for a treat, your dog will automatically stand at attention and wait for his treat or wait to be told what to do. He should then sit or lay down only when you actually give him the command to do so. This early training will immensely help when your dog hits the show ring. Teaching your dog to gait or trot when he is moving at your side will also prove helpful in his show career. You want the dog to be 'up' and happy when you ask him to move out, but this doesn't mean at a full run or gallop. Be cautious not to jog with or bike your dog until he is physically mature enough to do so. Check with your breeder or vet as to their recommendation on when you can start an exercise program. Food is another very important element in preparing your pup or dog for the show ring. In order to be in tip top condition, your dog needs to fed a high quality, professional formula dog food. These feeds may be more expensive, but the saying that a dog is only as good on the outside as what goes into the inside, is very true. Plus, with these higher quality foods, little or no extra vitamin supplementation is needed, which saves money; plus stool volume is greatly reduced since more of it utilized and digested by the dog. Everyone has their own opinion as to which dog food brand is the best, so it is up to you to do your research and decide for yourself which brand to feed. A good place to start is by asking breeders, whose dogs are in excellent condition and who have superior coats, what they feed. Conditioning requires time and persistence, and coat density and length can be influenced by genetics, but you still might want to try what they recommend and see what results you get. However, avoid the food switching scenario; pick one food and stick with it, unless your dog is obviously not doing well on it. Any new food will take time to take effect, so allow 4-6 months to really see the results. Most reputable breeders want to have their show quality puppies shown in the conformation ring. Many are willing to help novices get their pups ready to show or will show them for their owners. If you have purchased a show quality pup that you would like to get into the conformation show ring, be sure to talk with the breeder you got the pup from about how and when to get started. HERDING Australian Shepherds were originally bred to herd livestock, typically sheep. But they will also herd cattle, ducks, geese, hogs, and even children. Herding is an instinctive desire to keep a group of livestock in an organized group and move them in a desired direction. Most Aussies are 'fetching' dogs, which means they want to gather their livestock and bring them back to their handler. You may have seen pictures, etc. of a shepherd walking down a road or across a field with a flock of sheep following behind. This is accomplished by having a dog following behind the sheep and keeping them moving toward and in whatever direction the shepherd chooses to walk. This sense of balance that the dog has to the shepherd is innate in most Australian Shepherds and only needs to be directed and controlled to have a useful assistant on the farm. It is generally agreed that herding training should begin around 1 year of age. Supervised exposure to stock may be done earlier than 1 year, but should be done in a very controlled environment, with very dog gentle livestock, and sessions should be kept very short and positive. Prior to 1 year a dog is not physically or mentally mature enough to take the rigors of herding training; and if started too early, the pressures placed on a started dog will often turn a young dog off. If you have not trained a herding dog before, it is definitely advised that you start your exposure and herding training with a knowledgeable herding instructor. More damage can be done by turning your dog loose randomly to 'chase' livestock than by waiting months to attend a herding clinic or get enrolled in organized herding classes. In addition to a local Australian Shepherd club, check to see if there is an All-Breed Herding club in your area. They may have additional information regarding herding facilities, trainers, clinics, classes, etc. Herding can be a wonderful form of exercise and enjoyment for both you and your dog. And there is nothing quite like watching a dog and handler team working together to move a flock of sheep in from a large field or to move a herd of cattle through chutes on vaccination day. Just remember, herding is not something you can just do every once in a while when you feel like it. Herding involves a commitment of time and money. Unlike obedience where you can practice in your backyard or at almost any park and where an 8 week training session may run $30.00 - $80.00, herding has to be done at a facility that has livestock, which may require lots of driving on your part, and where fees will range from $5.00 - $20.00 per training session on your own and $200.00 - $300.00 for a intensive 3 day herding clinic with a qualified instructor. AGILITY - TRACKING - FLYBALL These are all activities that Aussies have fun doing and tend to excel in. Look into organized groups in your area for information about how to get started. SUGGESTED AGILITY CLUB LOCATED IN PHOENIX
GROOMING Fortunately, Australian Shepherds are not a 'high-maintenance' breed. Other than the basic brushing, nail-trimming, tooth, eye, and ear care, there is not a whole lot involved with keeping them looking wonderful. Like training, grooming is something that should begin right away. A new pup should learn right away that he must accept regular grooming as part of his life. And, you may even find that, with time, your pup may actually look forward to grooming as his special time when he gets extra attention. Start by picking a spot to be your regular grooming place. This may be an area on the floor or on a platform such as a picnic or grooming table. Start by letting the pup smell the grooming tool before using it on him; then use the tool very gently at first. Talk the pup through this and give him lots of reassurance and praise. If the pup resists, hold him firmly but not roughly. Let him fight until he finally gives in, talk softly to him and then continue to use the tool again. If the pup fights again, follow the same procedure. It may take a while, but eventually the pup will relax. And then, when you use the grooming tool in a gentle manner, he will soon realize that it won't hurt him and that it is easier to give in than to fight something that really isn't so bad. It will also teach him that you are the boss; he must do whatever you ask; and, if he fights, he cannot win. A slicker brush, a pin brush, and a metal comb are the only three brushes you should ever need to use on your Aussie. The slicker brush works well on the general body; the pin brush is good for some of the denser areas like the ruff and the rear feathers; and the metal comb is good for behind the ears and for removing knots and tangles. A young pup should be brushed 3-4 times a week to get him used to it and to have him handled as much as possible. An adult Aussie only needs to be brushed about 1-2 times a week to stay in good condition. Though you will probably want to brush every day when they are 'blowing their coat.' Start trimming your pup's toenails right away to get him used to having his paws handled and to keep his feet in proper condition. Long nails can cause the paws to splay and make the dog walk improperly on his foot and even weaken his pasterns. If you have never used dog nail trimmers, ask your breeder, vet, or groomer to show you how to use them correctly. If you are unsure how much to take off the nail when trimming, it is better to take off too little than too much. Trimming too close can cause the dog to bleed and to become overly sensitive to future trimmings. Remember, making these first experiences positive, non-threatening, and non-painful will make your job a lot easier when your dog is full grown and weighs a lot more. Toenails should be trimmed every 2-3 weeks on a regular basis. Getting your pup used to having his teeth and gums looked at and touched at a young age will also make dental care easier later on. A good exercise for you to do with your pup is to take your index finger and rub it gently along your pup's gums; not only will this feel good to him but it will also get him used to having your hands in his mouth. You should also keep an eye on your pup's teeth during teething (usually from 16-30 weeks) to make sure the baby teeth are being replaced with permanent adult teeth. If you find that a baby tooth is not being pushed out properly, you may have to have your vet remove it so it does not interfere with proper placement of the adult teeth. Later, you will want to be able to get into your dog's mouth to clean his teeth. There are commercial dog tooth care products available, or you can use a soft bristled human toothbrush with a dab of baking soda on it to gently massage your dog's teeth and gums. Excessive tartar build-up needs to be removed with a tooth scaler or by your veterinarian. Also, the mouth should be regularly checked for cracked or broken teeth and for inflamed or infected gums. If any of these signs appear, the dog needs to be promptly checked by your vet. Good oral hygiene is a must in responsible dog ownership. During grooming, get your pup used to having the outside of his eyes washed with a cotton ball dampened with water to remove 'sleepies' or tear stains and to having the inside of his ears examined and gently wiped out with a cotton ball dampened with alcohol. Any discoloration, tenderness, inflammation, or foul odor in the ears should be looked at by a vet right away. Although Australian Shepherds tend to love water, they are typically not fond of baths. Fortunately, Aussies tend to stay fairly clean and do not have much of a doggie odor and, therefore, do not need to be bathed too often. When you do give your pup or dog a bath, be sure to use a shampoo especially made for puppies or dogs, since people shampoos, as well as excessive shampooing, can dry out the skin and coat. As with other first new experiences, a pups first bath can be quite traumatic, so take care to make it as least stressful and as positive as you can. It is a good idea to start in a tub or sink so that you can get warm water instead of cold water straight out of a hose. Put the pup in the tub or sink without water and talk to him gently until he is comfortable in this strange new place. Then, using a plastic cup, gently pour luke warm water over his shoulders and back. If he resists, follow the procedure mentioned earlier. He will be a little more slippery, so be careful not to let him get away. CLIPPING Some Aussie owners like to have their Aussies clipped or shaved as an aid to shedding and because they think it makes them cooler in our warm climate. Just remember, a clipped Aussie will still shed because it is the undercoat that sheds and not the length of the hair, and even though the amount of hair shed may be reduced it will not be eliminated. Also, an Aussies coat is not only pretty to look at, but it also serves a useful purpose, it acts as an insulator against both the cold and, yes, the heat. So clipping an Aussies coat will actually cause them to be warmer in the summer heat, especially if left outside all day. If your Aussie gets excessively matted, or if you still want to have your Aussie clipped for your own reasons, please take them to a professional groomer to have the job done. They have the proper equipment to do the job and know how short to take the dog's coat without injuring his skin or leaving him with enough protection against the elements. SHOTS As mentioned several times already, it is imperative that you follow the complete schedule of puppy vaccinations recommended by the pups breeder or by your veterinarian. The reason a series of shots is given to a puppy is because no one is quite sure when a mothers natural immunities wear off and when vaccinations can be accepted into the pups system allowing him to build his own immunities. Therefore, a series of shots is given to make sure that even if the first two or three vaccines given to the puppy were overridden by his mothers antibodies that hopefully the fourth or even fifth shot will be accepted into the pups system, allowing him to build up protection that his little body needs. Puppy vaccines should not be given any more frequently than every 2 weeks and not longer apart than every 4 weeks between the ages of 6 and 20 weeks. Immunity from a vaccine is not established for approximately a week after the shot is given. Therefore, it is important not to risk your pup to needless or excessive exposure during this time. Also, do not vaccinate prior to a period of extreme stress, like traveling. If you have to, move the vaccine schedule up a week or delay it a few days to accommodate a known stress period. After your puppy has finished his initial series of vaccinations, he will need one booster shot annually every year thereafter. This booster will contain the same components as the initial puppy vaccines and is typically called a D-H-L-P-P (Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza, and Parvo). Depending on the area of the country you live in, you may also want to vaccinate for Corona virus; check with the breeder or your vet. A pup should be given his first Rabies vaccine at approximately 4-5 months, then again a year later and then every 3 years after that. Check with your vet to confirm this rabies schedule since regulations vary from area to area. A recommended schedule for vaccinating young pups is as follows: 8 weeks (Distemper, Parvo) 11 weeks (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo, Parainfluenza) 14 weeks (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo, Parainfluenza) 17 weeks (Distemper, Hepatitis, Parvo, Parainfluenza) 20 weeks (Rabies) WORMING The breeder probably wormed your new pup several times before he left for his new home. Puppies like to put everything into their mouths, so it is not uncommon for them to get or have worms at a young age. If you notice any of the following signs: diarrhea, vomiting, spaghetti or rice like pieces in the stool, or the pup scooting his rear along the ground, check with the breeder for a commercial wormer to use, or gather a stool sample and take it to your vet. It is really best to have a fecal exam done to confirm the presence of and what type of worm before using anything other than a palatable commercial type wormer (i.e.: Nemex). But, beware, a negative stool sample does not always guarantee that a dog is worm free since a dog must pass worm segments in that particular stool for it to be detected, which they don't always do. It is therefore sometimes best to gather a couple or three samples during the same day and take them together to your vet. HEARTWORM Heartworms are a different type of worm that invade and live in a dogs heart rather than in his intestines, are transmitted by the bite of a mosquito rather than ingested orally or by fleas, and the presence of which must be detected through a blood test rather than through a stool sample. Symptoms of heartworm include a dry, hacking cough, lethargy, and a tendency to tire easily. Heartworm is difficult to cure but easy to prevent. A once a month preventative medication can be given to pups as young as 4 months. A pup does not need to be tested for the presence of heartworm if he is started on the medication prior to his 6th month birthday; however, you absolutely must test any dog older than 6 months before starting him on the medication. You may only want to keep your dog on heartworm preventative during mosquito season, typically Spring and Fall, but you must re-test your dog each time before re-starting him on the medication after he has been off it for more than one month. Therefore, you might want to consider keeping him on the preventative year round. This will eliminate the need to test as often, though it is still a good idea to test your dog annually for the presence of heartworm even while he is on the preventative just to be certain the preventative has not failed. The other advantage is the new heartworm medications are now designed to prevent hookworms, roundworms, and whipworms as well as heartworms. One additional note, although most vets and other professionals will tell you that the heartworm medication Heartgard is safe to give to Australian Shepherds, the drug, Ivermectin, in Heartgard has been know to cause adverse and even fatal reactions when given to some Aussies. It is therefore strongly recommended that you insist on putting your dog on the preventative called Interceptor. If your vet does not carry Interceptor, ask him to write you a prescription for Interceptor, which you can order through almost any of the vet supply catalogues. If your vet won't write you a prescription because he says Heartgard is safe to use, go to another vet! It is your dog and your choice!!! SPAYING OR NEUTERING Unless you have definite plans of showing or breeding your Aussie, please consider spaying or neutering your new pup as soon as possible. (It is best to spay a female before she has her first heat cycle.) Besides making your pet easier to live with by reducing the tendency to roam and eliminating annoying heat cycles, spaying or neutering will often lengthen and improve the quality of your pet's life by minimizing and sometimes even eliminating the possibility of certain cancers! And, contrary to certain opinions, spaying or neutering will not make your pet 'wimpy' or any less of a dog! SPAYING YOUR FEMALE:
NEUTERING YOUR MALE:
Following is a list of common myths associated with Spaying and Neutering: reprinted from The Dog Zone, by Jean Kiblinger http://www.dogzone.com/spayneut.htm HAVING A LITTER WILL HELP MY FEMALE TO GROW UP AND MATURE FALSE. Raising a litter of puppies may cause a female to mature physically but will not change her personality. In fact, she may not even be a good mother and the whole experience may be very negative for her. Spayed dogs typically make the best pets. NEUTERING WILL CHANGE MY MALES TEMPERAMENT TRUE & FALSE. Neutering the male dog at an early age will help him be less aggressive toward other male dogs, but will not cause him to be less protective of his family or his home. Neutered males are still excellent watchdogs and protectors! Also he will not be tempted to follow the scent of any female in heat in your neighborhood, thus distracting him from his job. Early neutering will also help in house-breaking and training by decreasing urine marking for territorial reasons. But it won't turn your dog into a 'wimp', and he'll never know what's missing. SPAYING OR NEUTERING MY PET WILL MAKE IT LAZY AND FAT FALSE. Overeating and lack of exercise make a dog fat, not missing hormones. Put a pup onto adult formula food after spaying or neutering, even if he is less than a year; and put an adult onto a lite formula to help with any weight problems you might encounter. Spayed or Neutered animals do not need as much fat and protein in their diet. SPAYING WILL REDUCE THE RISK OF CANCER IN MY FEMALE TRUE. If spayed before her first heat (about six months), her risk of developing breast tumors is substantially reduced. Mammary cancer is the number one malignancy of the older female dog. Spaying also totally eliminates the possibility of ovarian and uterine cancers. Surgery in the immature female is less prone to complications. MY DOG IS REGISTERED AND OUGHT TO BE BRED FALSE. ASCA and/or AKC registration is not an indication of quality, and neither is the presence of champions in the pedigree. Very few dogs have the outstanding qualities necessary for breeding. Each puppy you produce should be an improvement over the parents. You may feel your dog is perfect, but is it a model for the future of the breed? Read the standard for your breed, and show your dog in competition to see how it measures up to others. Research the common health problems in your breed and discuss testing for genetic defects with your veterinarian. I WANT TO MAKE ENOUGH MONEY TO RECOUP MY INVESTMENT IN THIS DOG FALSE. Experienced breeders will tell you that they often lose money due to stud fees, veterinary care, extra food, advertising, and time spent caring for the mother and the litter. They all place enormous demands on your resources. Responsible breeders spend a lifetime learning about bloodlines, genetics, and the history of their breed. And this still doesn't guarantee a market for the puppies. FIRST AID With a young pup around, accidents are bound to happen. Many problems will be minor and you'll be able to treat them yourself at home. But for the times when you'll need assistance, it is best to get yourself on file at a vet clinic as soon as you get your new pup rather than waiting until an emergency arises. This will also allow the vet to become familiar with you and your pup and for you and the vet to become acquainted under normal conditions and not in a stressful emergency situation. This could save you valuable time when you might really need it. Be sure to note the nearest clinic's business hours and also find out where the nearest 24-hour emergency clinic is and have these phone numbers in an accessible place. It is handy to keep a file or notebook with these numbers and a complete medical history of your pup/dog for your own references at home and as an aid to your vet. Keep track of all vaccinations, wormings, injuries, illnesses, heat cycles, etc. Take this record with you any time you visit the vet for updating, taking notes in re: treatments, follow-ups etc. And always carry this record with you any time you travel with your dog. Since your dog can't talk to you and tell you when something is wrong or when he's not feeling well, it is up to you to recognize signs that indicate illness or injury. Some signs are obvious, but others will be very subtle and only by knowing your dog well will you be able to pick up on them. It is also up to you to decide when you can doctor on your own or when you need to seek medical assistance. Usually, it is better to be safe than sorry, and many potentially major problems can be minimized if detected early and prompt veterinary care is sought. THE NORMAL TEMPERATURE OF A DOG IS
MICROCHIPPING OR TATTOOING Microchipping and tattooing are permanent ways of identifying your dog. Tattoos are typically placed on the inner thigh or ear whereas Microchips are inserted under the dogs skin around the area of his upper shoulders. In either case, the method is permanent and therefore if your dog loses his collar or tags, he can still be traced back to you. Other added benefits of chipping and tattooing are that if your dog is stolen, you have a positive way to identify him, and animals with microchips or tattoos cannot be sold to research laboratories without written consent from the rightful owner. The Microchipping system is very extensive with several companies offering worldwide recovery systems if your dog is lost and later found with a Microchip. Your vet can provide you with more details of the different companies and which they recommend. Don't put it off. Microchip your new pup on his first visit to the vet and log his Microchip number and the Microchip companies number in your dog's file. Hopefully, you will never need to use it; but, at least if you do, it's one more way for your dog to find his way home. IN CONCLUSION Owning an Australian Shepherd, or eventually being owned by one, is an awesome experience. Your life will probably never be the same. Not only will you experience many trying times associated with pet ownership, i.e.: losing your favorite pair of leather loafers to a teething puppy, learning how to be smarter than your own dog, taking up jogging when you never even used to walk around the block, etc. You will also experience many memorable times and years of enjoyment with your Aussie. It is amazing how such a small bundle of fur can bring so many smiles and so much laughter into our lives. Treasure these times, for an Aussie asks nothing more than to be your best friend, and in return he will give you his heart and remind you of how wonderful some of the simplest things in life can be. I wish you years of happiness with your new friend! |